XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit

Product Information

XTC-3D® does not melt plastic. Two liquids are mixed together and brushed onto any 3D print, fabric, wood, and more. Coating self-levels and wets out uniformly without leaving brush strokes.

I think this is down to experience to get it right - On my first few attempts I was suffering on runs on non-horizontal surfaces (good finish where it did not run though)so I gradually loaded the brush with less XTC 3D until I got to a point where I did not get runs. No longer it matters the good that it was your printer 3D, with XTC-3D will be able to cover any defect of printing and soften all the surfaces. At present objects printed matter with ABS or PLA through technology FDM are not able to obtain surfaces totally sleek. At present the users of 3D printing to achieve better finishing in these pieces use knives , sandpaper , ketones So , all of them very little practical .From here it arises the competitive advantage of XTC-3D, since in so alone some minutes achieves soften and polish any surface. It achieves to delete 90% of the current work post finishing. This special coating full stretch marks and softens all printed surfaces in 3D. Before you start working with the material, you should be well prepared for the job. The XTC-3D has a very short curing time after mixing, and therefore after mixing the components it is best to begin coating the model with the resin immediately. You should also pay attention to such details as how you are going to hold the model, or what is it going to be attached to. The material takes at least two hours to dry, so holding it by an appendix which you have just covered with resin is out of the question. Although it may seem obvious, keep it in mind from the start – otherwise you will have to paint the model in parts (which is sometimes inevitable anyway). Making Molds of Models Coated with XTC-3D™: Liquid mold making rubbers will adhere to cured XTC-3D™. Before mixing and applying Smooth-On silicone or urethane mold making rubbers, apply a thorough coating of Ease Release™ 200 or 205 release agent over cured XTC-3D™ and let dry. Immediately after drying the model is suitable for further processing. The XTC-3D is great to polish, and there are no problems with painting either. Sanding or painting is not necessary, of course. The model can be simply covered with the resin itself and we will have a then glazy, shiny surface.Applying a Release Agent – For applications where adhesion is not desired, a spray release Ease Release™ 200 available from Smooth-On may be used. I have had similar problems and the issue seems to be dirt or some other material that prevents the surface from wetting properly. The coating seems to brush on OK, but then patches thin as the resin retreat from these regions, and the spots appear. Its seems the surface tension of the XTC-3D is exceeding the affinity between the XTC-3D and the surface being coated. Same reason oily spots on a glass surface prevent water from forming a smooth sheet. Or spray paint fails to coat dirty patches. Adding Fillers: A variety of dry fillers can be added such as Cast Magic® or bronze or other metal powders, Glow Worm®, Quarry Tone® or Ure-Fil® powders. The maximum filler load is an amount equal to Part A by volume. Pre-mix filler with Part A before combining with Part B. I certainly would not apply any thinner to the mix - not in the instructions! - but how much you load your brush may have an impact and of course is a personal decision, so one man's thin may not be another man's thin. Adding Fillers - A variety of dry fillers can be added such as Cast Magic™ or bronze or other metal powders, Glow Worm™, Quarry Tone™ or Ure-Fil™ powders. The maximum filler load is an amount equal to Part A by volume. Pre-mix filler with Part A before combining with Part B.

Any product that you have subsequently cut, shaped, broken or modified, unless found to be faulty or defective.XTC 3D is for those people who dont want to risk their life for an stupid method how to clean 3D Prints Because no two applications are quite the same, a small test application to determine suitability for your project is recommended if performance of this material is in question. Thinning XTC-3D® for Coating Starch / Powder Printed Parts: Viscosity can be lowered with acetone or denatured alcohol to penetrate porous parts. Adding Color - XTC-3D® can be colored with SO Strong® color tints, UVO® color pigments or ignite color pigments. Pre-mix color with Part A before combining with Part B. The answer in all these cases is the same. Clean the surface. Use a cleaner or solvent compatible with the surface being treated. Deodorized mineral spirits (mineral spirits minus toluene and other aromatic hydrocarbons) work well for many surfaces. One possible solution, though I haven't had an opportunity to try it since I heard about it, is to thin the XTC-3D with acetone or denatured alcohol. These should lower the surface tension and increase surface penetration. And of course, use appropriate safety precautions regardless of what you do. At the least, use gloves with epoxy as exposure to it can sensitize resulting in nasty allergic reactions on re-exposure.

Measuring and Dispensing: You need to be accurate in measuring for XTC-3D to cure properly. Parts A and B can be measured by either volume or weight. Dispense proper proportions of parts A and B into clean plastic, metal or wax-free paper containers (do not use foam or glass cups).I wonder what PLA you are using as I have never experienced your problem; I am just wondering if you are using a cheap PLA which is leaving some residue on the finish.

NO GOODS manufactured or sold by Advanced Materials Technology Pty Ltd will be accepted for a credit if returned after one (1) calendar month of original invoice date. Preparation: Materials should be stored and used in a room temperature environment (73°F/23°C). Elevated temperatures will reduce Pot Life. XTC-3D Part A resin and Part B Hardener must be properly measured and thoroughly mixed to achieve full, high-strength, solid-cure properties. Because no two applications are quite the same, a small test application to determine suitability for your project is recommended if performance of this material is in question. The two "blobs" ringed in blue were a result of the "running problem I mentioned, now overcome. If you look at the strut on the right, at the lower left corner you will see some roughness on the edge which is a result of the scanned image. After the job is done, leave the model to dry. It takes about 2-3 hours at room temperature, in the winter, in a garage, at a temperature of a few degrees above zero, the resin will take all day to dry up. As for the container, we leave it to dry as well. The dried resin comes easily away from the container walls when you bend them a little. There is a problem with the brush, though. You could toss it into the container with a solvent, but it is in fact only a half-measure, because the resin will never come away completely. If you leave the brush to dry, you may as well throw it away. It is therefore sensible to use rather cheap tools, because the lifetime of the brushes is very limited when working with the XTC-3D.Removing Uncured Material - Scrape as much material as possible from the surface using a scraper. Clean the residue with E-POX-EE KLEENER™ available from Smooth-On, lacquer thinner, acetone or alcohol. Follow safety warnings pertaining to solvents and provide adequate ventilation.